Van Cleef & Arpels

91 years have past since the Arpels brothers, along with their brother-in-law Van Cleef, opened their first jewelry in the heat of the French capital. The name Van Cleef & Arpels has marked the history of jewelry and signed creations of unique and incomparable beauty, combined with innovative aesthetics. Everything began in 1906, when the three Arpels brothers, Charles, Julien and Louis, along with the husband of their sister Alfred, decided to become jewelers. They presented their jewelry at the 22, Place Vendome, in Paris, and encountered a great success, with stores multiplying in other French cities. The great passion of the newly created jewelry house is none other but precious stones. The family tradition was of course a great factor, since the Arpel family business was finding and cutting diamonds. The three brothers started looking for precious stones in every continent, while Indian Maharadjas became the house’s greatest furnishers. Influenced by the general Eastern fashion, they presented in 1920 a jewelry collection inspired by ancient Egypt. In 1925, flowers are established as a basic motif for Van Cleef & Arpels, a motif to which they have remained faithful to until today. During the same year, its jewelry is clearly influenced by China and Japan, while Charles Arpel designs a jewelry purse, a real work of art named Minaudiere, which rapidly takes over the world. 1933 is a milestone year in the history of jewelry. The house creates the “invisible setting of stones” a real revolution in jewelry making, Inspired by Italian mosaics, the invisible setting is an admirable technical achievement, since there is not a piece of metal visible to the naked eye. It has been described as a “poetic challenge of time”. In 1937, the famous passe-partout, a piece with many functions, is launched. With its capacity for being worn as a bracelet, a pin, a necklace, or a belt ornament, it became the fetish jewelry of the 40’s. In 1939 the jewelers takes over America. Its first store opens on New York’s 5th Avenue, soon to be followed by stores in Palm Beach, Dallas, and Beverly Hills. During the 40’s the name Van Cleef and Arpels is closely connected with stars, actors, singers and dancers, while great women such as Marlene Dietrich, Lily Punch, Gloria Swanson, Maria Callas, Liz Taylor, Sofia Lauren, Romy Schneider, Catherine Deneuve becoming fervent admirers of their jewelry. In 1949, the watch collection Van Cleef & Arpels is launched, with the P. A49 (, a unique watch created by Julien’s son, Pierre). In 1967 the court of Iran chooses the house to create the jewelry for the coronation of the empress Farah, while Egypt asked them to design the jewelry for the wedding of the Shah of Iran with the princess. Even prince Renier chose the jewelry house for his wedding gift to Grace Kelly. In 1972, the house conquers Japan by becoming the first French jeweler to open a store inTokyo, soon to be followed by addresses in Singapore, Hong Kong, and Seoul. In 1976 is the year of the creation of the perfume “First”, followed by the men series “Van Cleef & Arpels pour homme”, and “Tsar”. In 1990 the house presents the hexagonal invisible setting, where the stones are cut in order to be seen from 6 different angles. In 1992 the Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry enters the museum “Mode et Costume” in Paris. As decades go by, the Van Cleef & Arpels house maintains its unique aura. The new generation is now in charge of the company: Jacques, and his children- Philippe, Dominique and Caroline- as well as the daughter of Pierre Arpels (who died in 1980). “Our policy of development is the policy of remaining in the back scene, modest, balanced, and discrete” has stated Philippe Arpels, who is responsible for the promotion of the house’s jewelry all over the world. It is certain that the house remains present back stage even today, pursuing its valuable tradition while constantly renewing itself.